- 2008 De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir
I have what can only be described as a fetish for Pinot Noir. I can’t think of any other legal substance that elicits more delight when consumed orally than good Pinot – Maybe Sauternes – But I have to be in the mood. On the other hand, I could drink Pinot for breakfast, lunch and tea. Whisky for the nightcap, incase you were wondering.
There are however several complicating factors about my beloved Pinot Noir. Apparently it’s a c^&* of a grape to grow, susceptible to just about every vineyard disease imaginable, it produces tiny little grapes – therefore very little juice, and is said to be extremely sensitive to vintage conditions. What’s more it’s apparently very difficult to work with in the winery too, very few people actually have much success with it. Recently, a renowned Pinot winemaker confessed that he’s often only happy with about 40% of his vineyard’s yield – and that’s all he bottles in a given year. A very good year (one in five) will see that yield rise to upto 60%. Pretty amazing stuff when you consider it’s one of two wines he intends to make year in year out. He can only rely on 40% of his bread most years. Pretty brave. Serious Pinot Noir requires dedication, skill, persistence and TLC more than any other. Why bother? When the wine hits top cog, it’s an experience like no other. Which explains why the good stuff is so damn expensive.
2008 Debortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley
Translucent deep crimson, with brick crimson hue. Day One: Lifted nose, showing sour cherry, strawberry, stewed plum and a very faint hint of spice. The palate is lively and racy – simple, clean refeshing flavours of sour cherry run from front to back. The palate is medium bodied, but playing peek-a-boo over the fence, considering jumping to the light side of the paddock. Flavours of stewed plum and spice emerge in aftertaste. Crisp, clean sour cherry aftertaste, tannin virtually non existant, absence of power-wave notable. Day Two: More restrained nose, showing sweeter, almost confectioned notes – Grape Zappo & Redskin, the spice all but a faint memory, a wee hint of wood smoke. No hint of earthyness, truffle or game – essential for top Pinot. The palate is a little more lively than the nose, more grape zappo, sour cherry and a touch of strawberry jam – again no spice, virtually no tannin and an aftertaste softer than a smack in the face with a ball of wool.
My score is low, the colour is crap, the nose is a delight – albeit a simple one on day one, and the palate is yummy, but simple and lacks varietal character, the aftertaste and finish are short. However, don’t let this discourage you from sipping away happily on a hot summer’s day – It’s a lovely clean, crisp red, and for $18.00 I’m not disappointed. There are plenty of Pinots you could pay more for, and not get something half as good. I consumed and enjoyed the bottle. In the top 8% of Pinot? Hell no, more varietal character please. 13.5% Alc./Vol. 1.5, 4.5, 6.5. 12.5/20
If you see it with the free Red Angus Pilsener slab – grab it. That beer is yum, in the same respect this is – De Bortoli – Producers of booze for drinkin’ not for thinkin’.
If you read my line about my ‘Pinot fetish’ and want to know what I’m on about, grab a bottle of 2007 Nautilus Pinot Noir or2008 Paringa Estate PE Pinot Noir – For mine, examples of great value Pinot. The latter can be had for a handfull of dollars more than this one, and is an unquestionably better drink.
I’ll never trust a critic with Pinot Noir again, I should have learnt my lesson with Halliday. Thankfully it only cost me $18 this time.
In other news – Goat’s Cheese from Yarra Valley Dairy is to die for (and affordable). Take that, holy goat! The fish and chips at the Healesville hotel, particularly when paired with very pretty company and spiffy Chardonnay – namely ‘08 Hoddles Creek, is a great way to spend a sunday arvo.
In 1857 the Prince Albert vineyard became the first Australian vineyard to be planted exclusively to Pinot Noir, and it existed as such until 1882. In 1975 someone discovered this fact, and replanted the vineyard – Oblivious to the fact that good Shiraz and Grenache vineyards exist elsewhere in Australia from a period long before then. One wonders why it took 90 something years to replant. If it was on the money to begin with, why rip the buggers out? Perhaps it was that stupid bug, Phylloxera..? Anyhow, I digress.
